ollestad describes a time when he was staying in a mexican fishing village with his father. when they went surfing the waves were massive yet he was able to successfully reach the center of a fierce wave saying it felt like he had reached the center of the universe. “you’re in the middle of this energy force that can crush you yet somehow you’ve tamed it and you’re sitting inside of it. you’ve sort of broken it.” he recalls. explain how this moment might have helped him survive on the mountain